{"id":702,"date":"2015-02-12T13:12:43","date_gmt":"2015-02-12T10:02:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/yihr.rs\/?p=702"},"modified":"2015-02-12T10:52:01","modified_gmt":"2015-02-12T10:52:01","slug":"pun-krug","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yihr.rs\/bhs\/pun-krug\/","title":{"rendered":"Pun krug"},"content":{"rendered":"

Od nepoznatog, novog, unapred proka\u017eenog. Potom sam oti\u0161ao do prvog taksiste i promrmljao ne\u0161to na engleskom pokazav\u0161i mu ceduljicu, na \u0161ta je on klimnuo glavom i stavio moj kofer u gepek. Na njegovo pitanje odakle sam nepromi\u0161ljeno rekoh \u2013 iz Austrije, i odmah se ugrizoh za jezik setiv\u0161i se da bih sa mojim nema\u010dkim ostao gladan u toj istoj Austriji. Jer, mislio sam, ako ka\u017eem da sam iz Srbije, da \u0107e mi vo\u017enju naplatiti bubregom, a kusur mo\u017ee da zadr\u017ei.<\/p>\n

Ubrzo sti\u017eemo do Velanije, dela grada u kome sam odseo, i ulazim u ku\u0107u koja bi trebalo da bude moj unapred ugovoreni sme\u0161taj. U jednoj sobi me je sa\u010dekao stariji gospodin koji je \u010ditao Koha Ditore<\/em> i po\u0161to sam mu na engleskom objasnio razlog dolaska pitao me je odakle sam. Ovog puta ba\u0161 nisam mogao da sla\u017eem pa rekoh iz Srbije, te se on odmah \u201eprebacio\u201c na srpski i re\u010de mi da je moja grupa sme\u0161tena dvadesetak metara niz ulicu, u jednoj \u017eutoj ku\u0107i sa desne strane. Na moj skamenjeni pogled i sle\u0111eno telo samo se osmehnuo i rekao: \u201eU stvari, narand\u017easta je\u201c.<\/p>\n

Budu\u0107i da sam, kao i ve\u0107ina ljudi iz mog okru\u017eenja, imao nebrojeno predrasuda prema stanju na Kosovu, tome \u0161ta \u0107e me sa\u010dekati kad odem \u201edole\u201c i Albancima generalno, svaki dan boravka je bila nova demistifikacija svih onih stereotipa kojima sam zadojen od prvog ud\u017ebenika istorije do poslednjeg Drugog dnevnika pred odlazak u Pri\u0161tinu. Zapravo, mesec dana koje sam tog leta proveo u Pri\u0161tini borave\u0107i na letnjem programu American University in Kosovo<\/em> su svakako jedno od najboljih iskustava koje sam imao! Srpski mo\u017ee slobodno da se pri\u010da u sred Pri\u0161tine, prodavnice su pune robe iz Srbije, a dobri restorani i no\u0107ni \u017eivot ni u \u010demu ne zaostaju za beogradskim. Naro\u010dito ljudi koje sam upoznao na Kosovu ne li\u010de na onaj \u0106osi\u0107ev \u201etalog Balkana\u201c ili na na\u0161e predrasude o albanskim teroristima ili trgovcima organa, ve\u0107 na jedan blizak svet koji ima iste probleme ba\u0161 kao i mi, isto ili sli\u010dno se obla\u010di i slu\u0161a istu ili sli\u010dnu muziku kao bilo koji dvadesetogodi\u0161njak u Beogradu ili Sarajevu. Na kraju, za bilo koji grad ili zemlju vas uvek ve\u017eu ljudi, a ne zgrade, ulice ili ukus lokalnog specijaliteta.<\/p>\n

Moj odnos sa Pri\u0161tinom se od tog leta potpuno menja i postaje latentno neobja\u0161njiv. Grad koji objektivno nije najsre\u0107nije mesto za \u017eivot ili najure\u0111enije, ali opet, s druge strane, grad koji odi\u0161e mlado\u0161\u0107u, energijom i kosmopolitskim duhom (pun je stranaca i sigurno \u0107ete pre \u010duti engleski nego u Beogradu). Upravo ta suptilna privla\u010dnost ovog grada \u010dini da budete nepopravljivi zavisnik njenih alternativnih klubova, tradicionalnih restorana i ostalih fensi mesta. Ipak, pro\u0161lonedeljni (sada ve\u0107 tradicionalni) postispitni retreat na Kosovu obele\u017eile su dve teme \u2013 Trep\u010da i Jablanovi\u0107.<\/p>\n

De\u0161avanja u Trep\u010di proteklih dana imaju jaku simboliku. Proces raspada biv\u0161e Jugoslavije pro\u0161ao je pun krug i vratio se na mesto odakle je sve po\u010delo. Pre vi\u0161e od \u010detvrt veka, 1989. godine, rudari Starog Trga (jednog od rudnika RMHK Trep\u010da) otpo\u010deli su \u0161trajk koji je ostavio trajne posledice od Triglava do \u0110ev\u0111elije. Naravno, nije samo ta obustava rada rudara bila glavni razlog, ali svakako je predstavljala ta\u010dku posle koje vi\u0161e nije bilo povratka, iako mnogima to nije tako izgledalo. I danas je Trep\u010da ta\u010dka sporenja, samo su uslovi i uloge promenjeni. Uz akumulirano socijalno nezadovoljstvo i ekonomsku besperspektivnost, Trep\u010da je jedna od ideja vodilja aktuelnog bunta koji se odvija na ulicama Pri\u0161tine pod parolom \u201e\u017divot damo, Trep\u010du ne damo\u201c.<\/p>\n

Druga varnica koja je zapalila kosovsku javnost bila je izjava ministra Jablanovi\u0107a koji je nazvao \u201edivljacima\u201c ljude koji su kamenovali autobuse sa \u0111akova\u010dkim Srbima tokom Bo\u017ei\u0107nih praznika. Kosovska javnost je o\u0161tro zamerila Jablanovi\u0107u optu\u017euju\u0107i ga da je \u201edivljacima\u201c uvredio porodice ubijenih i nestalih, kao i zahtevaju\u0107i njegovu ostavku. Na sastanku sa njim dobio sam uverenje da se to odnosilo samo na ljude koji su izvr\u0161ili taj akt, ali sa druge strane utvrdio i elementarno neznanje ministra Jablanovi\u0107a o tome \u0161ta se tokom rata desilo u \u0110akovici, \u010diji je izgovor da nije bio tamo te da ne mo\u017ee da zna \u0161ta se \u201998. ili \u201999. dogodilo!<\/p>\n

\"Kosovske<\/a><\/p>\n

Ipak, ova poseta Kosovu, pored politi\u010dkih turbulencija, masovnih protesta i polupanih prozora na zgradi Vlade, bila je posebna po tome \u0161to sam ponovo u\u010destvovao u odvo\u0111enju dvadesetak mladih ljudi na svojevrsni tour de Kosovo<\/em> \u2013 Pri\u0161tina, Gra\u010danica, Gazimestan i Mitrovica (s obe strane mosta). To je bila prilika da vidim sebe od pre dve godine u o\u010dima kolega i koleginica, mojih vr\u0161njaka, koji prvi put upoznaju \u201edrugu stranu\u201c. Da poku\u0161amo da dekonstrui\u0161emo sve medijske stereotipe o \u017eivotu na Kosovu i Kosovarima\/Kosovcima \u2013 \u017eivljenje u\u00a0enklavi, pri\u010danje srpskog u Ulici Majke Tereze (pri\u0161tinska Knez Mihailova), vo\u017eenje besnih kola u Beogradu sa KM tablicama (la\u017ena registracija radi izbegavanja pla\u0107anja poreza), (ne)pla\u0107anje struje i vode, simuliranje suza Aleksandra Vu\u010di\u0107a (i uop\u0161te nam nije i\u0161lo lo\u0161e!), da li se ka\u017ee Kosovo ili Kosovo i Metohija, vratiti se sa svim vitalnim organima, ljubiti se sa Albancem\/Albankom, prelazak grani\u010dne\/administrativne linije (sa sve pe\u010datom u paso\u0161u), \u010dinjenicu da u Mitrovici ima zasigurno najvi\u0161e zastava po kvadratnom metru na svetu (sa obe strane), itd. Siguran sam da \u0107e neko od grupe koja je sada posetila Pri\u0161tinu po\u017eeleti opet da se vrati. Da li \u0107e slagati taksistu odakle su?<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Photo credits (main photo):\u00a0Frits Brouwer<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Svoj prvi (samostalni) odlazak u Pri\u0161tinu verujem da \u0107u pamtiti do kraja \u017eivota. Leto 2013. i bataljeni autobus Adio toursa (na autobuskoj stanici u Beogradu rekoh sebi: adio \u017eivote!) koji vam obe\u0107ava sve osim udobne vo\u017enje i sigurnog dolaska, prispeo je na stanicu u Pri\u0161tini oko 17 \u010dasova. Stiskaju\u0107i ceduljicu na kojoj je bila napisana adresa guesthouse-a u koji sam i\u0161ao, osvrnuo sam se oko sebe i osetio neverovatan strah. 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